Cuba | Valle de Viñales: Hiking, Dancing And Horse Riding

The region called Valle de Viñales is located in the West of Cuba. The area is famous for mogotes – the impressive standalone hilly structures surfacing from the valley. This is also the home for the famous and recognizable cigar plantations. The village of Viñales is the heart of the region as well as the most popular accommodation and visitors center. For sure you will end up there if decide to visit the region.

Valle de Viñales is part of the most popular itineraries for individual visitors to Cuba. That means it is easy to get there for instance from Havana. The colectivo for ca 25CUC will bring you here in less then 3 hours. The drive will follow the main western highway leading to Pinar del Rio and then straight to Viñales. Just before you unload at the door of your next casa particular you will be kindly invited (it is included in your price, señor) to visit an “unique” tobacco farm. We will come back to this later…

Staying at casas particulares facilitates the arrangements of any local activities. The host will be happy to organise a collectivo to your next destination, rent a bike or arrange a walking tour. Logically, the guy will be happy to calculate a comission which will be included in the final price. However, despite the fact it is easy to arrange all of this on your own (directly in the street) the recommendation from the host reinforces a sense of reliability somehow. For instance the region of Vinales is very attractive for different outdoor activities. One of popular options is 2-3 hours horse ridding. The supply of this service is quite extensive however, the quality may differ and the recommendations from the casa may be attractive. Otherwise most of the tour will be spent on”friends'” farms (shops) on the unique and unusual presentations of the local farming methods (read: the pre-sale marketing low quality show performed everywhere the same way) followed by the “only today” opportunity to buy a local staff like cigars, rum or honey (read: all products are heavily overpriced and not necessarily of the highest quality). Sounds familiar? Yes, this is what you first visited when getting there with your colectivo.

Contrary, the reliable guide can offer you a higher dose of elasticity and thus allow to spend more time enjoying the magnificent views on magotes from the saddle. The usual price is between 25 CUC per person for 2-3h ride. For inexperienced cowboys 3 hours in the saddle is pretty enough. Note that your are going to enjoy a horse off-road: hilly terrain, narrow forest paths, crossing rivers and number of stops to enjoy beautiful views.

To be fair and despite being a bit sarcastic in the lines above I need to admit the beautiful Vale de Vinales is especially famous for its tobacco farming. For sure this is the best place to buy cigars at the attractive price/quality ratio and thus contribute to the local community. Especially that the tobacco farmers must tribute 90% of their estimated production to the state…

Apart from horse riding the valley provides with many hiking options. Yes, you may take a guide and go for a walk together (yes, probably you will need to visit the tobacco farm of his friend). But, actually you have enough information in maps apps to manage your hike on your own. Indeed the terrain is sometimes unpredictable so mind especially small rivers and muddy areas which may complicate the walk a little bit.

I would recommend a nice downhill walk from the famous hotel Horizontes Los Jazmines to Viñales. It’s about 5km through lovely rural area and opportunity to see the daily life of the farmers. Visit my Wikiloc site to follow the trail record (link).

Another idea – maybe for an evening stroll to enjoy the sunset – is to go to the hotel Ermita where you can find a view point. The loop is ca 4km. Wikiloc trail

Indeed if you like outdoor you can easily spend there couple of days. A lot of opportunities for longer or shorter walks (for instance visiting nearby caves). It’s also easy and popular to rent bikes and move around.

And in the evening? As said Viñales is very popular touristic place. A choice of bars and restos is quite extensive for such a small village. Also every day the salsa night takes place in the main square (Plaza Mayor). The most popular dance floor is at Centro Cultural there. Before dancing starts the short (1 h) salsa show is performed. Lovely and authentic Cuban music performance! Must see for sure. By the way this is the place not only for tourists so you will be able to see the Locals moving on the dance floor in the rhythm of clave and understand that salsa is part of their life.

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